當我們選(xuǎn)購(gòu)防(fáng)曬霜或帶(dài)有防(fáng)曬功能(néng)的(dí)化妝品時，包裝上的(dí)“SPF 50+"，“PA++++"等(děng)標識，並非隨意標(biāo)注，而是基(jī)於科學(xué)測試(shì)標準所得出的結果(guǒ)。

多年來，行(háng)業普(pǔ)遍(biàn)遵(zūn)循ISO 24444標準，通(tōng)過模擬日光(guāng)照(zhào)射(shè)，觀(guān)察人體皮(pí)膚產生曬(shài)傷紅斑的程度(dù)來測定防(fáng)曬(shài)指(zhǐ)數。這(zhè)一(yī)方(fāng)法雖(suī)然經典，但其(qí)依(yī)賴人(rén)體產生可見曬(shài)傷的測試過程，在效率，倫理和消(xiāo)費(fèi)者日益關(guān)注的安全(quán)性與透明度上，正(zhèng)麵臨(lín)挑戰。

ISO 23698作為一項新(xīn)發布(bù)的國際(jì)標(biāo)準，為(wéi)防曬功(gōng)效(xiào)測(cè)評提供了另(lìng)一(yī)種技(jì)術(shù)方(fāng)案。這(zhè)項(xiàng)標準引入(rù)的(dí)混合漫(màn)反(fǎn)射(shè)光(guāng)譜法，在(zài)測試方法學(xué)上(shàng)進行了(liǎo)重(zhòng)要更(gēng)新，提升了測試過(guò)程(chéng)的效率(shuài)和安全性(xìng)。了解(jiě)從ISO 24444到ISO 23698的技術演進(jìn)，不(bù)僅關乎(hū)行業(yè)的(dí)技術升(shēng)級(jí)，也與每一位(wèi)消(xiāo)費者(zhě)未來所購買產品的(dí)可(kě)信度與安全(quán)息(xī)息相關。

「從(cóng)生物學反(fǎn)應到(dào)光學測量(liáng)的(dí)演進」

傳(chuán)統方法(fǎ)如ISO 24444依(yī)賴(lài)人體皮(pí)膚(fū)的紅斑反(fǎn)應（曬傷）來測(cè)定防(fáng)曬(shài)指(zhǐ)數（SPF）。ISO 23698標準的發(fā)布(bù)則引(yǐn)入(rù)了一種混合測量方法(fǎ)，其(qí)核心創(chuàng)新在於(yú)采用混合漫反射光譜(pǔ)法（HDRS），大(dà)幅減少了測(cè)試(shì)過程對人(rén)體(tǐ)皮膚(fū)的(dí)傷害(hài)。

傳(chuán)統SPF測試的(dí)挑(tiāo)戰(zhàn)：

ISO 24444的(dí)測試流(liú)程涵蓋受試(shì)者篩選，個(gè)體最(zuì)小(xiǎo)紅斑(bān)劑量（MED）測(cè)定，樣(yàng)品(pǐn)塗抹，紫外(wài)綫照(zhào)射及紅斑(bān)評估等(děng)多個(gè)環(huán)節。關鍵步驟包括(kuò)：

• 受試者篩選(xuǎn)：需招募18-65歲健康成(chéng)人(rén)，皮(pí)膚(fū)光型以I-III型為(wéi)主(zhǔ)，排除有皮膚病史(shǐ)或光(guāng)敏(mǐn)性藥物使用史(shǐ)者(zhě)。

• 劑量控(kòng)製：樣品(pǐn)標(biāo)準塗抹量為(wéi)2.0mg/cm²，均匀(yún)塗抹(mǒ)後(hòu)靜置15分(fēn)鐘成膜。

• 紅斑判讀：光(guāng)照(zhào)後20-24小時(shí)內(nèi)，由訓練有素(sù)的(dí)評(píng)估員(yuán)盲法判讀(dú)剛(gāng)可(kě)見(jiàn)紅(hóng)斑（MED）的(dí)臨界(jiè)點(diǎn)。

盡管(guǎn)該流(liú)程確保了(liǎo)結果(guǒ)的(dí)可(kě)比性(xìng)，但(dàn)其(qí)依賴人體曬(shài)傷反應(yīng)的本(běn)質限(xiàn)製(zhì)了(liǎo)其(qí)應用(yòng)效(xiào)率(shuài)和倫理(lǐ)接受度(dù)。

HDRS方法的突(tū)破(pò)性優勢：

新標準同樣(yàng)需要在(zài)人體(tǐ)皮膚(fū)上進(jìn)行測(cè)試(shì)，但其優(yōu)勢在於不再(zài)需要以皮膚曬傷作(zuò)為測量(liáng)終點。它通過(guò)結合體外(wài)光譜測(cè)量與(yǔ)體內(nèi)皮膚(fū)漫反(fǎn)射光(guāng)譜(pǔ)（DRS）測量，實(shí)現(xiàn)了(liǎo)對SPF，UVA-PF和臨界波長（CW）的(dí)同步(bù)測(cè)定。這種方法避免(miǎn)了測(cè)試(shì)過(guò)程(chéng)中對(duì)皮(pí)膚(fū)造成紅斑(bān)損(sǔn)傷(shāng)，提(tí)升(shēng)了測(cè)試的安(ān)全性(xìng)與倫理(lǐ)接(jiē)受(shòu)度(dù)。

人(rén)體曬(shài)傷反(fǎn)應

「測(cè)試(shì)流程全(quán)景(jǐng)」

新標(biāo)準(zhǔn)根(gēn)據(jù)紫(zǐ)外綫波段(duàn)特性，采用(yòng)不(bù)同(tóng)方(fāng)法分別測(cè)量UVA和(hé)UVB的(dí)防護效果。

• 儀器準備(bèi)

設備校(xiào)準與驗證

• 受試(shì)者篩(shāi)選與UVA波段體(tǐ)內測量

測(cè)試在健(jiàn)康誌(zhì)願(yuàn)者(zhě)的背(bèi)部進(jìn)行。標準(zhǔn)會(huì)篩選皮膚類型(xíng)，顏色合適(shì)且近期無(wú)紫外綫暴露史的受試者。

UVA測(cè)量是(shì)HDRS技術(shù)在人體(tǐ)皮(pí)膚(fū)上直(zhí)接(jiē)進行的(dí)部分。光學(xué)探頭通過測量(liáng)320-400nm波(bō)長的(dí)UVA光(guāng)綫在塗有防曬產(chǎn)品的(dí)皮膚(fū)上(shàng)的反射(shè)情況(kuàng)，直(zhí)接(jiē)計算(suàn)出產品對UVA的(dí)防護能力(lì)（UVA-PF）。此(cǐ)過程僅需(xū)光學(xué)掃描，無需紫外綫(xiàn)照射(shè)皮(pí)膚，故無傷害(hài)。

• UVB波(bō)段體外測(cè)量與(yǔ)數據融合

UVB部分(fēn)的測量(liáng)在(zài)體(tǐ)外(wài)完成(chéng)。在(zài)特製的(dí)塑料(liào)板(bǎn)上(shàng)塗抹防(fáng)曬(shài)產品(pǐn)，用儀器精(jīng)確測(cè)量其阻擋UVB的光譜(pǔ)數據(jù)。

將體(tǐ)外測得的(dí)全(quán)波段數據與(yǔ)人體皮(pí)膚上(shàng)測得的UVA數據進(jìn)行整(zhěng)合(hé)，生(shēng)成(chéng)完整(zhěng)的(dí)紫(zǐ)外綫(xiàn)吸(xī)收(shōu)光譜(pǔ)。

• 數據(jù)計(jì)算與驗證(zhèng)

計算機利(lì)用(yòng)特定的計算(suàn)公式(shì)，將(jiāng)融合(hé)後的光(guāng)譜數據轉換為(wéi)具體(tǐ)的SPF，UVA-PF等數(shù)值(zhí)。整個(gè)過(guò)程通過標(biāo)準(zhǔn)品(pǐn)的(dí)比對和(hé)統計(jì)規則進(jìn)行(háng)驗證，確(què)保(bǎo)數(shù)據達到預設(shè)的精度(dù)要(yào)求(qiú)。

「技術邊界與行業影響(xiǎng)」

ISO 23698的(dí)推出不(bù)僅(jǐn)是測試(shì)方(fāng)法(fǎ)的升級(jí)，更推動了防曬產品(pǐn)研發(fā)向(xiàng)更高(gāo)效率，更(gēng)精(jīng)確，更(gēng)人(rén)道的方(fāng)向發展(zhǎn)。其技(jì)術優勢包(bāo)括：

• 安(ān)全(quán)性(xìng)顯著提升：通過(guò)光學測量替(tì)代紅斑反應(yīng)，杜(dù)絕(jué)了(liǎo)測試過(guò)程中對(duì)誌願(yuàn)者(zhě)皮(pí)膚造成(chéng)曬(shài)傷(shāng)的風險(xiǎn)，體(tǐ)現(xiàn)了(liǎo)更(gēng)強的倫理關懷(huái)。

• 數據(jù)維度(dù)豐富(fù)高效(xiào)：同步(bù)輸出SPF，UVA-PF和CW，一(yī)次測(cè)試即(jí)可全麵評估(gū)防(fáng)曬效能，大大(dà)縮(suō)短了(liǎo)研(yán)發(fā)周期(qī)。

• 客觀(guān)性與可(kě)追(zhuī)溯(sù)性(xìng)強(qiáng)化(huà)：減(jiǎn)少人為判讀紅斑(bān)的主(zhǔ)觀誤差，並(bìng)通過標準品校(xiào)準和光(guāng)學設(shè)備監(jiān)控，提(tí)升(shēng)實驗(yàn)室間(jiān)結果(guǒ)的可比(bǐ)性。

這項(xiàng)技(jì)術的(dí)普(pǔ)及，將使防曬產品的(dí)功效(xiào)數據建立在(zài)更科(kē)學(xué)，更安(ān)全(quán)，更可(kě)信的基礎上，標誌(zhì)著(zhuó)防曬測評進入(rù)一(yī)個以光(guāng)學技術(shù)為核(hé)心(xīn)的新發(fā)展階(jiē)段

「產(chǎn)品推薦」

Solar Light 開發的(dí) HDRS 測(cè)試(shì)係統——Poly602 與 Mono602 型號，符(fú)合(hé) ISO 23698 測試(shì)標準(zhǔn)，為防曬產(chǎn)品測評(píng)提供高效(xiào)，可(kě)靠的(dí)技(jì)術(shù)解(jiě)決(jué)方(fāng)案。

產(chǎn)品(pǐn)優(yōu)勢

• 快速(sù)獲取(qǔ)SPF和(hé)UVA-PF結(jié)果

• 單次測量僅需3-4秒（Poly602）/ 30秒（Mono602係(xì)統(tǒng)）

• 無皮膚紅(hóng)斑反(fǎn)應，照(zhào)射(shè)總(zǒng)能(néng)量低於國(guó)際紫外綫(xiàn)安全(quán)閾值

• 受試者每7天可(kě)參與一次混合漫反(fǎn)射(shè)光譜（HDRS）測(cè)試

係(xì)統核心配置

• Poly602 / Mono602 HDRS主機

• LS1000太陽(yáng)光模(mó)擬(nǐ)器

• SPF290紫外綫(xiàn)透(tòu)過(guò)率(shuài)分(fēn)析儀

• PMMA測試(shì)板(bǎn)

• RestAssured 服(fú)務，維(wéi)護與保修(xiū)

愛(ài)博能(néng)作(zuò)為(wéi)其(qí)在中國區的代理商，為您提供符(fú)合(hé)防曬(shài)測試(shì)標準(zhǔn)的測試係(xì)統及全套解(jiě)決(jué)方(fāng)案(àn)。歡迎垂詢(xún)了解更多(duō)！

ISO 23698 Sun Protection Testing Standard: How It Affects Your Sunscreen Choice

When purchasing sunscreen or cosmetics with sun protection, labels such as "SPF 50+" and "PA++++" on the packaging are not arbitrary; they are derived from scientific testing standards.

For years, the industry has widely followed the ISO 24444 standard, which measures the sun protection factor by simulating sunlight exposure and observing the degree of erythema (sunburn) on human skin. Although this method is classic, its reliance on inducing visible sunburn in human subjects presents challenges in terms of efficiency, ethics, and the growing consumer demand for safety and transparency.

As a newly published international standard, ISO 23698 offers an alternative technical approach for evaluating sun protection efficacy. This standard introduces Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (HDRS), representing a significant methodological update that improves the efficiency and safety of the testing process. Understanding the technical evolution from ISO 24444 to ISO 23698 is relevant not only for industry technological advancement but also for the credibility and safety of the products every consumer will purchase in the future.

Evolution from Biological Response to Optical Measurement

Traditional methods like ISO 24444 rely entirely on the erythemal response (sunburn) of human skin to determine the Sun Protection Factor (SPF). The introduction of the ISO 23698 standard brings in a hybrid measurement method. Its core innovation lies in adopting Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (HDRS), significantly reducing harm to human skin during testing.

Challenges of Traditional SPF Testing

The ISO 24444 testing protocol involves multiple steps: subject screening, determination of individual Minimal Erythema Dose (MED), product application, UV irradiation, and erythema assessment. Key steps include:

• Subject Screening: Requires recruiting healthy adults aged 18-65, primarily with skin phototypes I-III, excluding individuals with a history of skin disease or use of photosensitizing medication.

• Dosage Control: The standard product application amount is 2.0 mg/cm², applied evenly followed by a 15-minute waiting period for film formation.

• Erythema Reading: 20-24 hours after irradiation, trained assessors perform blind readings to determine the endpoint for the just-perceptible erythema (MED).

While this process ensures result comparability, its inherent reliance on inducing sunburn in humans limits its application efficiency and ethical acceptance.

Breakthrough Advantages of the HDRS Method

The new standard also requires testing on human skin, but its advantage is that it no longer requires skin sunburn as the measurement endpoint. By combining in vitro spectroscopic measurements with in vivo skin Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (DRS) measurements, it enables the simultaneous determination of SPF, UVA-PF, and Critical Wavelength (CW). This method avoids causing erythema damage to the skin during testing, enhancing safety and ethical acceptance.

MED

Panorama of the Testing Process

Based on the characteristics of UV wavelength bands, the new standard employs different methods to measure UVA and UVB protection effects separately.

a. Instrument Preparation

Calibration and Verification

b. Subject Screening and In Vivo UVA Band Measurement

Testing is conducted on the backs of healthy volunteers. The standard screens for suitable subjects based on skin type and color, and who have had no recent UV exposure.

The UVA measurement is the part where HDRS technology is directly applied to human skin. An optical probe measures the reflection of UVA light (320-400nm) from skin treated with the sunscreen product, directly calculating the product's UVA protection ability (UVA-PF). This process involves only optical scanning without exposing the skin to UV radiation, thus causing no harm.

c. In Vitro UVB Band Measurement and Data Fusion

The UVB portion is measured entirely in vitro. The sunscreen product is applied to specialized plastic boards, and instruments precisely measure its spectral data for blocking UVB.

The full-spectrum data obtained in vitro is then integrated with the UVA data measured on human skin to generate a complete UV absorption spectrum.

d. Data Calculation and Verification

A computer uses specific calculation formulas to convert the fused spectral data into concrete numerical values such as SPF and UVA-PF. The entire process is validated through comparison with standards and statistical rules, ensuring the data meets predefined precision requirements.

Technical Boundaries and Industry Impact

The introduction of ISO 23698 is not merely an upgrade in testing methodology; it propels the development of sunscreen products towards higher efficiency, greater precision, and more humane practices. Its technical advantages include:

•   Significant Safety Enhancement: By replacing erythemal response with optical measurement, it eliminates the risk of causing sunburn to volunteers' skin during testing, reflecting stronger ethical consideration.

•   Rich Data Dimension and High Efficiency: Simultaneous output of SPF, UVA-PF, and CW allows for a comprehensive assessment of sun protection efficacy in a single test, greatly shortening the R&D cycle.

•   Enhanced Objectivity and Traceability: Reduces subjective errors from human erythema reading and improves inter-laboratory result comparability through standard calibration and optical equipment monitoring.

The widespread adoption of this technology will establish the efficacy data of sunscreen products on a more scientific, safer, and more credible foundation, marking the entry of sun protection testing into a new development stage centered on optical technology.

Product Recommendation

Solar Light's HDRS testing systems—the Poly602 and Mono602 models—comply with the ISO 23698 testing standard, providing efficient and reliable solutions for sunscreen product evaluation.

Core System Advantages

•   Rapid acquisition of SPF and UVA-PF results

•   Single measurement takes only 3-4 seconds (Poly602) / 30 seconds (Mono602 system)

•   No skin erythema response, total irradiation energy below international UV safety threshold

•   Subjects can participate in Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (HDRS) testing every 7 days

Core System Configuration

•   Poly602 / Mono602 HDRS Main Unit

•   LS1000 Solar Simulator

•   SPF290 UV Transmittance Analyzer

•   PMMA Test Plates

•   RestAssured Service, Maintenance & Warranty

As its authorized distributor in China, Aibotn provides testing systems and complete solutions that comply with sun protection testing standards. Feel free to contact us for more information!